Why A Retinoid Is THE Ingredient You Need For Anti-Aging!
Let's face facts, everyone is obsessed with anti-aging. We all want to look our best for as long as we can. With that in mind I will tell you that there is one ingredient that is the key to looking your best that you can start using from your teens onward. It is a retinoid. Yes, the Vitamin A derivative is the absolute best anti-aging ingredient that helps you look younger.
Retinoids come in the following forms: retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde, retinol, tretinoin and tazarotene. Retinyl palmitate is the least potent OTC retinoid. It is great for those with dry or excessively sensitive skin. Retinaldehyde is another OTC retinoid that is slightly stronger than retinyl palmitate. Then there is retinol, adapalene, tretinoin and tazarotene. Retinol is the strongest of the OTC products and one I will go to in depth here because it is most common. There are are four forms I am going to discuss: retinol, adapalene, isotretinoin and tazarotene. Retinyl palmitate, or Vitamin A palmitate, is a powerful antioxidant and common skincare ingredient in moisturizers, sunscreens and topical acne medications. It effectively treats mild acne and boosts collagen production. Retinol the next strongest OTC one. Then there is Differin or adapalene. Retin-A or isotretinoin is a form of Vitamin A that helps treat acne and wrinkles. It is much stronger and generally has a higher likelihood of irritation.
Retinol, also known as Vitamin A-alcohol, helps prevent and treat wrinkles. It not only smooths out current fine lines and wrinkles you might have but helps exfoliate (on a cellular level) to reveal brighter, smoother, younger looking and newer skin. Regular retinol comes in different strengths. Usually it is found at a 0.5%, 1.0% or 2.0% strength. When using it you want to start out with the lowest strength and at every other night. Irritation* might develop but that means the retinol is actually working. It works by causing a massive exfoliation of the skin cells. If the irritation is too much for you, jump back to skipping a night and then continue. What you want is just a slight bit of irritation*, a slight exfoliation of the skin. Then when you can start working upward to every night. Once you are okay with every night and do not see any irritation*, if you do not have any sensitivities, you can work up to a 1%. Again, start out on every other night and work up to every night until there is no irritation*. The same applies for when you want to jump up to a 2% strength. All of these instructions apply whether or not you are using a serum, cream or lotion. Retinol can be applied to underneath the eye area. Should you want to endeavour to do this, know that it needs to not touch the eye itself and you need to keep it to a low percentage. You should start to see results within a month to six weeks of use. The higher the percentage, the better the results. Retinol helps with fine lines, wrinkles, smooths uneven skin texture and brightens the overall complexion by getting rid of hyperpigmentation. Make sure to use a sunscreen with retinol use. Otherwise you will not see the results you are seeking. And when I mean use a sunscreen, I mean daily in the house and outdoors (rain or shine).
Differin (adapalene) gel is another form of Vitamin A that helps to fight acne but also exfoliates the skin. It works slightly different than retinol by slowing down the process of cells lining the pores (hair follicles) and desensitizing them to inflammation. Thus it is less likely the hair follicles will form a comedo (plug) and actually become a pimple. It is also less irritating than other retinoids, which makes it better for those with younger skin and acne. Adapalene gel comes in 0.1% strength and is OTC now (over the counter). It works great for acne and treating/preventing fine lines and wrinkles. This product can be purchased from Amazon or your local drugstore. When using adapalene you can generally start off by using it every night because it causes less irritation*. If you do experience any, back down to every other night until skin adapts. I usually recommend adapalene for clients in their teens and 20's who want to start a retinoid or who have acne. Do not use with any other retinoids as the same time, on the same night. Again, use a sunscreen with Differin. Otherwise you will not see any results. I know it is hard to get younger clients to use a sunscreen but it is important. You need to wear one rain or shine, indoors and outdoors.
Retin-A or isotretinoin is only available by Rx (prescription), starting at 0.05% and working upwards. When using this it is VERY important to start out slowly and use an occlusive (such as Aquaphor, Vaseline or CeraVe Healing Ointment) on the lips around the mucous membranes so as not to exfoliate them. Start out with every other night and make sure to use on dry skin. Then after about two weeks work your way up to every night. Remember it is a must with this product to use sunscreen (it is a must to use sunscreen with all retinoids, but especially with Retin-A) as it causes increased sun sensitivity. Also, you will literally cause more problems if you do not use sunscreen and you are using Retin-A, as more fine lines, wrinkles and especially more hyperpigmentation will appear. Isotretinoin treats acne, fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin texture and hyperpigmentation. Do not use up around the eyes, as it is very strong. Trust me on this. It will cause irritation*.
Tazorac or tazarotene is the strongest retinoid available by Rx, and comes in a 0.05% gel or 0.1% gel. It is used to treat acne but also works to smooth fine lines and wrinkles. A study published in "Journal Watch Dermatology" showed that users found a fantastic side effect of the product. It works by affecting the growth of skin cells. This way they cannot stick to the hair follicles or accumulate on the surface of the skin. And, it also treats mild hyperpigmentation. If you get a Rx for this make sure to use a sunscreen.
*Should excessive irritation (redness, burning and peeling) appear, cut back and use a moisture barrier cream such as CeraVe Moisturizing Cream or CeraVe Healing Ointment on the irritated areas where the skin's moisture barrier is affected. It will help to heal the moisture barrier right up and ease any irritation. Aquaphor can also be used. My personal preference is CeraVe Healing Ointment as it has the best ingredients (panthenol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides).
I hope that this has answered some questions regarding retinoids. This should help give you a decent amount of information regarding where to start with them. Remember to go slowly and work your way to every every night slowly. If you have sensitive skin, start off with the lowest strength possible at an interval that works for you. Then work your way to a every night and remember to use sunscreen during the day. Tweet or email me with questions.
Until Next Time~
Marie Papachatzis
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